Are we seeing a revolution in the luxury brands style offices? Never fear, the tanneries attending Anteprima by Lineapelle at FieraMilanocity (which ends today) say they are ready to face these changes with meticulous internal structures, in-depth research and a particular focus on service. “We need to be flexible”, say Bonaudo, “we are artisans of luxury, we cannot hide behind anachronistic viewpoints”. For next winter (2017/18) we aren’t proposing excess, but “a cautious and reassuring news”, based on sophistication, quality, declined in the light of various reinterpretations: metallic, pearl, glitter and print. The colours are warm and intense: from neutral browns with hints of grey, to dark greens and autumnal oranges, from navy blue to petrol and rust. There is less and less separation between summer and winter, in the choice of colours and detailing. Gold and silver make an appearance, contrasting bright tones, but there are also matching pairs and reversible pieces, usually on offer during the warmer months. While it is true, we are seeing a return to the natural plant effect (also evident in the split leather on show on the Opera stand), the technique that has allowed for stretch leathers in Nappa, patent and pony is opening new doors; producing suede/velvet blends (Tari tannery); creating optical effects with serigraphs (Antiba); and reproducing the Mediterranean kidskin on a lambskin (Russo di Casandrino).
Anteprima by Lineapelle (6/7 July, Fieramilanocity): are the luxury brands changing stylist? “Tanneries at the ready”. Trend: new, but without excess
