The fashion manager and the product manager of the renowned high-end fashion label, which we can’t name due to company policy, work hand in hand at Lineapelle96. It’s a sign of the times: in an ever accelerating fashion world, fashion houses try to optimise how their teams work so that they’re the first to reach new conclusions: “We’re working on footwear using exotic skins. Do we let ourselves get influenced by Chanel? Come off it!”, they laugh. “We’ve found some interesting ideas. But we don’t know what our spending capacity will be for the 2020 summer yet, hopefully good.” At the main exhibition of leather and materials for fashion taking place at Fieramilano Rho until February 22, a wide variety of insiders is in attendance, marking the presence not only of well-established designer brands, but also of emerging brands. Like Andrea Insua, an Italian-Guatemalan designer, who three years ago founded the leather goods brand with the same name: “I hadn’t been to Lineapelle since 2017,” she said. “I have my suppliers, but I’m eager to discover new ideas, especially stylistic ones: I’ll also be taking part in the fashion show”. In her eyes, in addition to being an opportunity to keep up-to-date on fashion trends, the fair also offers other advantages: “I only use Italian materials, not only for leathers, but also fabrics and accessories,” she added, “so to me, attending a fair where I can find everything I need is very useful.” Speaking of trends, sustainability is the mantra of the current season: “That’s why we’re at Lineapelle looking for natural leathers and organic fabrics”, the managers of Dudù Bags from Friuli told us, “to design collections geared towards the green economy.”
Textiles, machinery, and curiosity
“You have to have a look around the pavilions dedicated to the tanneries, but we’re really here for the textiles”, three designers from an Italian accessories brand explained. “And that’s exactly why we don’t have anything particular in mind”, they added, “there are some stands that always offer interesting innovations.” Cinzia Visentini, the Tuscan designer behind the leather goods brand of the same name, was also intrigued by the two pavilions dedicated to leathers, as she explained as she left Simac Tanning Tech, “I really saw the future in there”, she explained. “There are some very innovative pieces of machinery here,” added Gabriele, who is at the exhibition with Visentini but with a focus on ideas for footwear, sneakers in particular. “Often we’re talking about very expensive pieces of machinery”, he concluded, “but if you want to keep up with the market, you have to invest continuously.” Visitors to the synthetic textiles pavilions were also abuzz. According to Pepe Vera, a Spanish designer who works as a consultant for brands, these types of materials have two strongpoints: “They’re cheaper and they can handle what fashion needs of them. I’m thinking of the sneakers industry, for example. But”, added the fashion designer, “I’m here at Lineapelle looking for leather with innovative features. I’m talking about animal print, patent leather, and metallised leather.” Lineapelle has also cemented its role as a creative hub for the entire fashion system, as confirmed by visitors like Antonio, who works for a company that does research and development with metals. “I’m here to see what innovations are produced”, he said, “it’s always a great opportunity to discover new trends.”
