Gucci’s second women’s collection, designed by creative director Sabato De Sarno, took place in the Carlo Macchi foundry in Milan. Sensuality returns, declined in materials and volumes. With a coup de grâce, the designer tries to go beyond last season’s quiet start, and gives life to a collection of lush petticoats, leather jackets, biker shorts and new accessories. The impression is that he has finally had some fun and, like it or not, has decided to go his own way.
De Sarno goes his own way
For Gucci’s first collection, De Sarno had not dared, focusing on building a sober wardrobe with a few splashes of colour (above all, the new Gucci red). The collection presented on Friday, 23 February, in Milan, on the other hand, seeks to construct a new language aimed at different types of women. On the catwalk, black skinny blazers matched with mini-shorts derived from the world of bikers. Then, minidresses and knee-length boots, decorated leather jackets, long slip dresses and lace petticoats. But also, wool skirts matched with transparent tops. There are as well references to the world of lingerie (declined in velvet dresses that mould the body) and feathers (in the hems of some coats and in overcoats).
The vision of wearability
De Sarno’s new work goes down the road of wearability, especially in the knitwear – hyper-decorated with rhinestones and floral appliqués or made of wide pullovers, without forgetting the glamorous side. And he does not forget the details. Like the double G symbol embossed on red leather jackets (second photo, from left) or the collars decorated with gold appliqués that recall silk ties.
The accessories
For autumn/winter 2024/2025, De Sarno has included knee-length riding boots and leather boots – the must-have of the season, a new version of the moccasin (already revised for last season) and bags of all kinds, from the iconic Jackie in leather (in red and green) to a new half moon-shaped model, in leather and declined in various colours. What is surprising, however, is the change of perspective compared to the first releases of the new creative direction – more conservative, and the sensuality that pervades the new proposal. De Sarno draws inspiration from Gucci’s past (brought to the fore by Tom Ford),but marks a new chapter in his work. A path that, like it or not, goes its own way.
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