They call it “mannish” (although “less feminine” is perhaps apt too), – the term most used to describe London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017’s main trend – reflecting how the unification of the men’s and women’s catwalks, introduced by Burberry (and others too), has already made its mark on the style profile. Versus Versace is offering a total black, super rock look, with black leather jackets, studded belts and gilets, and heeled sandals with studs and straps. A proposal of fur for the summer collections too, in Christopher Kane’s original combinations, for example. Fluid, soft draping for Sharon Wauchob, colourful pop detailing on sandals and handbags for Sophia Webster, a multitude of straps in metallic leathers or glittery on retro Mary Janes with low heels by Ryan Lo. Shearling coats and black leather bombers with mini studs (present on the bags too) for the Burberry man who walked for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 in the “see now buy now” dimension. Masculine style for the women in footwear especially. Eudon Choi offers patent leather lace-ups with a narrow, pointed toe in a range of vibrant tones. Shrimps are showcasing sneakers, with patterns inspired by Converse with fine embroidery on the upper. Mannish-style for Daks too, with ankle-strap ballet pumps and elegant patent leather moccasins. Teatum Jones brings mid-heel, pointed toe cowboy ankle boots to the catwalk. Mother of Pearl offers mid-heel pointy pumps with chain-detail straps and beading to the rear. For Emilia Wickstead, pumps in woven leather, pointed with a low heel, while Simone Rocha opts for laser-cut or patent leather for her boots. Charlotte Olympia Dellal is certainly strides ahead in the originality stakes – she paraded fruit clad models wearing Rio-inspired shoes. Her footwear, bags and accessories feature a signature golden spider web on the soles in tribute to the book “Charlotte’s Web” by E. B. White. The most popular models are the Dolly décolleté-style platform pumps, the Kitty ballet pumps and the Pandora clutch. All made in Italy, near Florence, using Italian leathers. (mg/mv)
London Fashion Week: mannish style and leather everywhere, from dresses to shows
