Paris Fashion Week (running from 26 February to 5 March) is underway. The first to show their autumn-winter 2024 collections were Dior, with a collection inspired by Gabriella Crespi, celebrating the plural feminine and independence. And YSL, which presented a study on purity and nudity, inspired by the founder of the French fashion house. While Courrèges focused on trench coats and large bags.
Dior references
Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of the Dior woman, brought a collection to the catwalk that recalled the work of Italian designer and sculptor Gabriella Crespi. The link between Crespi and the brand is indeed strong. In the 1960s, her works decorated Dior boutiques, and she was also the muse of Marc Bohan, the brand’s creative director for almost thirty years. In 1967, Bohan launched “Miss Dior”, the first ready-to-wear collection that revolutionised the way people dressed in the wake of the youth revolution. Chiuri therefore approached that imagery, creating a collection designed for every type of woman. On the catwalk, short dresses and skirts paraded, precisely to underline that concept of freedom, leather jackets combined with miniskirts. Not only that: also both long and short dresses with fringes in lurex fabrics, contrasting brassieres over sweaters, patent leather boots with flat soles embellished with straps, gold buckles or beads.
The relationship with art and the archives
Chiuri’s collection does not lack a relationship with art. Indeed, the phrase “Miss Dior” was painted on many garments. The models walked around the works of Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni, who reflects on the female body and creates armours that constricts the body. This way, Chiuri drew attention to the contrast between those cages and her clothes. Anthony Vaccarello, creative director of YSL, also started from the archives to create a collection inspired by the nude look created by the founder in 1968. That chiffon dress protected but at the same time revealed, perfectly describing the approach of the new generation.
Purity and length
Vaccarello brings to the catwalk a collection that speaks of purity, thanks to the play of transparencies. And thanks to dresses made of tights that leave the body visible, in a palette ranging from nude colours to red. To embellish the outfits, the designer has included marabou feathers (another hallmark of the brand), light turbans, maxi coats, glass jewellery and lush bags, also covered in feathers. On the other hand, Nicolas Di Felice, creative director of Courrèges, has put together a collection of long trench coats and tight-fitting skirts in black leather, asymmetrically cut tops as well in leather or denim, and large bags.
In the photos (from their own digital channels) Dior, Courrèges and YSL looks
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