What are the locks on Louis Vuitton‘s leather jackets and blouses hiding? The leather for summer 2023 that the fashion house brought to the last Paris Fashion Week subverts proportions, changes perspectives. Buckles become dresses, the zip from invisible accessory holds the centrality of attention. And a suitcase tag becomes a bag: new shapes, taken from the world around us and amplified by the magnifying glass of Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s creativity. “It is a stylistic exercise that re-evaluates the proportions of clothing, a proof for which,” explain Vuitton, “the codes of femininity are broken down in scale. The infinitely large and the infinitely small come together in silhouettes that invite to a new point of view”. For the Women’s SS 2023 collection, Vuitton chose to bloom inside a magnificent red monster-flower created by Philippe Parreno in the heart of the Louvre.
Leather for Summer 2023
If Ghesquiere zooms in on the details, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski for Hermès is inspired by the world of the outdoors, life in the open air and sport. And indeed, she chooses the Paris Tennis Club to present a collection where leather is the protagonist. From smooth calfskin to lambskin, passing by double-face suede effect calfskin. Parkas, coats, capes in the colours of nature, but not forgetting the black sheath dresses and bags, rounded and comfortable.
Miuccia’s upcycling
Essentiality and timeless garments at the Palais d’Iéna in Paris for Miu Miu’s spring-summer 2023 collection. Miuccia Prada also focuses on new and exclusive garments in upcycled leather, already protagonists of the autumn-winter 2022 limited edition collection. For Paris fashion week, leather jackets are sleeveless, and with incorporated handbags. And there is no shortage of skirts, trousers, overshirts and very comfortable tracksuits. Miuccia Prada also proposes flip-flops in glove-effect boot mode. “Fashion is part of real life,” explains the show’s presentation note, “it has a use and a purpose, both to dress the body and to express broader feelings, larger themes, linked to the individual and culture. Fashion’s notion of utility, benefit and service influences physical expression”.
In photo: on the left an Hermès look, in the middle Louis Vuitton, on the right Miu Miu
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