Who will Gucci choose? Three big names and one outsider are believed to be in the running for the role of the new creative director, reflecting two opposing schools of thought regarding the flagship brand of the Kering giant. Financial analysts lead the broad camp that would prefer a major name, while Domenico De Sole heads the minority faction that argues Gucci does not necessarily need a creative star, but rather someone with abundant talent.
Dario Vitale in the running
The name of former Miu Miu designer Dario Vitale, raised by Miss Tweed, as the likely successor to Sabato De Sarno at Gucci, has turned the tables. Vitale left Miu Miu at the end of January 2025. Rumours had suggested he would join Versace, but the idea of leaving Miu Miu, the luxury brand with the highest growth, to join Versace, a brand up for sale with an uncertain future, seemed hardly credible to many insiders.
Stefano Cantino revolution
Vitale’s name lends credibility to the idea put forward by former Gucci CEO Domenico De Sole, who argued that Gucci does not need a celebrity but rather a talented individual. Vitale’s appointment would reportedly have been decided by Gucci CEO Stefano Cantino. Ladymax also highlights another important detail. Cantino, who worked at Prada from 1997 to 2018, is assembling a team with his former colleagues. Valerie Leberichel, who worked at Prada from 2013 to 2022, now holds the position of Senior Vice President of World Communications at Gucci. Cantino, Leberichel, and Vitale have all worked together, and Davide Tosi, another former Prada employee, has also moved from his role as Product Director of Gucci’s women’s line to the design team at the same brand.
The name the market expects
Vitale is not the name the market expects. Analysts are pressing for the brand to appoint a high-profile creative director. The list of possible candidates includes Slimane, Galliano, Kim Jones, Piccioli, Tisci, and Chiuri. The latter, according to sources confirmed by WWD, is negotiating with Fendi. According to Ladymax, the shortlist consists of three candidates, with Maria Grazia Chiuri in the top spot.
The challenge, however, is that in order for her to move from Dior to Gucci, from LVMH to Kering, the designer would likely have to wait for the customary one-year non-compete period that is typically enforced at the end of a working relationship, unless Gucci is willing to pay a substantial penalty. The issue also extends to the other two prominent names: Hedi Slimane and John Galliano. What seems certain is that the new creative director will have a smaller budget for marketing, advertising, and other expenses than their predecessors.
Images: Gucci and Dario Vitale
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