“I don’t want the moon”, and indeed he didn’t get it. The song chosen by Sabato De Sarno for his last show at Gucci was meant to be a signal. Because as of today, De Sarno is no longer the creative director of the Florentine maison. His appointment was announced by Kering in January 2023, when the designer took over from Alessandro Michele. However, from the first collection, the end seemed already announced. His collections have almost never received positive reviews, marking a clear break with the past. The waltz of creative directors continues, but it is increasingly evident that the problem is structural. “Future Starts Slow” was the other soundtrack chosen for the show. A warning to Kering, perhaps, and a request for time to gain momentum. Today we can say that he will have neither time nor the moon.
What went wrong
Before understanding why Gucci now seems like a stylistic prison, credit must be given to De Sarno for navigating the brand through the most complicated period of all, from rising prices to the supply chain crisis. Spoiler: the creative direction is responsible for many things, but some decisions must be made from above. When De Sarno arrived, Gucci was the stylistic megaphone of Alessandro Michele’s dominance. To put an end to it, De Sarno closed that whole world in a drawer, pretending it did not exist.
Who is Sabato De Sarno?
De Sarno’s creative direction was a calculated decision. We are talking about a young industry professional – with previous experience at Prada and D&G – who in a few months found himself catapulted to the helm of one of the symbolic brands of Italian fashion. We believe he didn’t want the moon. And precisely because De Sarno was unknown at the time, Kering released a documentary, “Who is Sabato De Sarno?”, to introduce him to the world. Except forgetting that the figure of the creative director is built over years and years, and tailoring a role to a designer who has never had other similar experiences, instills doubt. What if Kering had chosen a (sacrificial) passing designer to test the waters?
Coming to the style
It cannot be said that Sabato De Sarno was not building his own style. However, his collections have always played with rigor, never too loaded, never too empty, softened for the middle ground, not very sensual, not very Gucci, perhaps not very kitsch. And above all, the narrative of and about the products was missing, which stopped telling stories and dreams. “I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work done to strengthen the brand’s identity,” said Francesca Bellettini, Deputy CEO of Kering, in a statement. One wonders, despite everything, what the brand’s identity is today. As for the successor, a separate championship opens. Perhaps Slimane, having left Celine?
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