Low, comfortable and made of leather. One only has to look at the latest collections to realise that the iconic Mary Jane model is back. Having become recognisable over time with their black leather upper, rounded toe and an instep strap, the Mary Jane has its roots in childlike aesthetics and school imagery. But the first to wear them were the imaginary protagonists of some comic strips created in 1902 by Richard Felton Outcault. It was Coco Chanel, however, who made them a distinctive fashion mark.
The Mary Jane is back
In Outcault’s comics, the protagonist’s sister was called Mary Jane and wore a pair of simply designed shoes embellished with a strap. The first to acquire the rights to use the characters was the Brown Shoe Company, a Missouri shoe factory that was inspired by those shoes to produce a low top model. A heel was then added in the 1920s, but it was the association with certain film stars – including Shirley Temple, Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton – that made them famous. In 1957 Coco Chanel invented a two-tone model – the upper was beige leather while the toe was black fabric. By then the Mary Jane had become a must-have.
The Mary Jane is back
Today, more than about a return, we speak of a reconfirmation. Indeed, the Mary Jane continues to crowd the catwalks. Many brands include them in their collections, including Maison Alaïa, which for spring summer proposed a model in perforated lambskin, in a low version (on the left, in the photo). Mary Jane shoes also often become playful experiments. For example, Maison Margiela created a crossover (right, in the photo) with Tabi, its iconic model, demonstrating that the Mary Jane has become a field of creative investigation.
Creative investigation
Prada chose to paint them red or stud them with sequins, Casadei coloured them pink and added a button, while Chanel inserted bows of all kinds or revised the toe, presenting it in gold. The simplicity of the design makes them perfect for pairing with straight trousers and wide skirts, but also with long dresses and cycling shorts. Despite the fast pace of fashion, Mary Jane shoes seem destined to remain in women’s wardrobes because – low, comfortable and made of leather – they combine comfort and timeless elegance.
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