Pucci and Ferragamo? Brands that need to be relaunched. Hermès? “To be refreshed”. How is fashion fashion these days? “I’m a little confused…”. These are the words by Frida Giannini, former creative director of Gucci, who, in the last 5 years, has kept her distance from the spotlight of the fashion system, with some “small” exceptions. And who yesterday, guest of the Fashion Global Summit in Milan, had her say, quite directly, on the current situation of luxury and some of its reference brands.
I am a bit confused
“I’m a bit confused,” says Giannini. In recent years “there are brands that have exploded. They did not exist and have become a cult. But they sell a T-shirt, a sweatshirt and a bag with collaborations of another kind”. The amazement of former Gucci designer does not stop here. There are brands, in fact, “in which there is an overexposure of the logo which, in my opinion, is already a bit tiring. When I was at Gucci I used the logo in a very discreet way, combining it with precious leathers, but they told me I was too commercial…”.
Learn from the artisans
Giannini, who in recent years has sipped her presence in the media, has something to say. A dig goes to young fashion talents without real training. The suggestion she gives them, then, is to go and learn from artisans, “the excellence in our supply chain”. The deepest thrust, however, is reserved for those who choose these young designers: “If you are selected on the basis of your followers, the music you listen to, or whatever, I don’t really know what to tell you. But I wonder how long they will stay in that position”.
Revive, refresh
During her speech, Frida Giannini admitted that her dream job would be at Chanel or Hermès. “Especially Hermès: it needs to be refreshed”. Although, she added, as WWD points out, that she always expects that role to be filled by a French designer. The designer sees great potential from Emilio Pucci, “a brand that can be relaunched by working on different product categories”. The same goes for Salvatore Ferragamo “which needs to be rejuvenated and become more exciting”.
Two examples to praise
There is also, however, to sing someone’s praise. For example, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative mind. In other words, Giannini says, “the only woman at the helm of a big brand in a sector that is still a male lobby”. Or, Dolce & Gabbana, a brand that represents a “great example of made in Italy”.
Image from donna.fanpage.it, photo credit Fabio Lovino
