“After 3 years of pandemic, during which we all spoke of the changes we wanted to the system, slowdowns, and other topics, we are back to the start. We are once again subject to the brutality of algorithms”. Thoughts and words of Francesco Risso, creative director of Marni, a brand owned by OTB. The brand chose Tokyo and Japan to reveal its Fall/Winter 23/24 collection, for men and women. A maximalist and colorful collection, filled with squares and pois and some total red and black looks.
After 3 years of pandemic
“Here in Japan, I felt a deep sense of patience, quietness, and respect everywhere I went. Something that in the West I believe we are losing”, said Risso to Vogue while wearing thin ovine leather coat. Risso also highlighted how after three yeas of pandemic and consequent wishes to slowdown, everything is back to how it was.
The importance of Japan
Marni chose Tokyo because Japan is an historically important market for the brand. Nearly 25% of revenue is generated there, mainly via 28 retail points (inclusive of 2 owned stores, 23 shop-in-shop points and three stores). CEO Barbara Calò said to WWD that sales in Japan for 2022 grew by 30%. OTB didn’t reveal the brand’s revenue, but market sources estimate that Marni’s revenue reached 220 million euro in 2021. And in 2022, the brand grew 31% to reach 290 million euro.
Risso for Rosso
Calò attributed the global growth of the brand to a robust performance of all categories. “The fact that we trust in one handbag isn’t something to be feared”, commented Risso while smiling. Renzo Rosso commented Risso’s actions, to MF Fashion by saying: “He managed to rejuvenate Marni. He brought on many young people. Business has definitely been impacted by the choices for the first three years but it’s not recovering nicely”.
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