COVER STORY
THE FUTURE, AT THE FAIR
Leadership and responsability
Lineapelle returns to Fieramilano Rho with its 95th edition. Key word: innovation of product, of process, managerial. Regardless: sustainable innovation. Strong themes of a business experience that is “a lighthouse for a market” looking for clarity.
Ode to the leather
An ode to its excellence and sustainability, that is what the installation inserted within Milano XL’s second edition means. An ode to its presence, “trustworthiness, useful and creative”, in everyday life, as shown by the exhibit organized inside the Lineapelle space.
Present, future, Lineapelle
Lineapelle95, september 25th to 27th, inaugurates a “hub of inspiration, where businesses will be able to find new ideas to better aim their future research”. Doors are open at Lineapelle Innovation Square.
The battle of handbags
The Italian accessories industry finds itself at Mipel amid growing numbers, markets to explore and cautious demand.
Micam confirms its role
The Milanese footwear fair (September 16-19) confirms to be the only one in the world for the top of the range and its traits of internationality. The shoe market, however, remains complicated and urges companies toward a strategic updates.
Butter Düsseldorf
While waiting for the main event in Milan, Gallery Shoes in Germany and CPM Moscow take place. The German one goes well, the second disappoints.
SUMMARY
WORLD FOOTWEAR YEARBOOK
Overtaking
Footwear production around the world returns to a growth trend in 2017 and passes the 23 billion pairs mark with decision. China stays even. India overtakes the USA in the largest purchaser ranking.
LEATHER
Form is substance
Brands ask materials that are perfect. But in the raw material market has an always-lower quote of top hides. This is the no-way-out situation the tanning industry is in now.
Helsinki battlefield
The Finnish fashion week announces the prohibition from 2019 for leather items to be on catwalks. An arbitrary move that mobilizes the European tannery industry.
Defending leather
Cotance achieves a pledged effort from the European Commission in the DG Grow to develop “a legislative tool that defends leather from the competition of fake materials and the consumers from commercial frauds”. But the 2019 elections are delaying everything until the end of 2019.
Chromium and why
An important luxury group announces that, starting in 2025, it will only use chrome-free and metal-free leather. But 85% of tanned goods are tanned with chromium, and it is scientifically known that it doesn’t have harmful effects on the health of living beings nor on the environment. The debate starts now.
ACQUISITION
The terms to explain it
Tanneries acquiring other tanneries. Private equity funds purchasing a percentage of such tanneries. The future of the Italian leather sector may have just begun.
The last acquisition
Veneto’s Gruppo Peretti also starts operation in Santa Croce sull’Arno: it completes the acquisition of Miura and activates a “very high-quality production that services the main international luxury brands”.
Colomer’s time
Chanel finalizes another operation in the tanning industry and acquires the Spanish group, ovine specialist. An investment kept secret for another brand that strengthens its supply chain control.
GLOBAL SCENE
Duties’ geopolitics
Brazil lifts duties on wet blue and salted leather (it seems). Argentina could increase them to 9% when it comes to raw material. China closes its doors to leather from the USA.
RAW MATERIALS
¿A donde va la carne?
The livestock industry smiles (almost) everywhere in the world: Global Trade Atlas’ data gives a picture of growing meat exports and depicts China as the promised land.
Oceania’s meat
The prolonged droughts are pushing the Australian meat industry to slaughter more units and register record exports.
LUXURY
Acquisitions era well liked
The luxury industry grows, and investment funds see an opportunity. According to Deloitte the fashion and accessories sectors are among the most interesting for merger & acquisitions’ ops. Zegna / Thom Browne. Carven. Acne Studios.
Nevertheless it will befit
The public appreciates openness about the origin of products and competitors already practice it. Brands of the high range, however, declare the origin on the digital labels only in 50% of cases. The Exane BNP Paribas – Contactlab analysis.
E_COMMERCE
The bag in the closet
It was born in NY, but it is 100% Italian. A portal that illustrates (and then sells) the excellence of the made in Italy craftsmanship: the one founding everything on the quality of the product, but which has difficulties to communicate it. The US customer? “Very educated”.
NEWS
Lear Corporation closes in on the 22 billion marks
China, Bader invests
Argentina, difficult crises
Scotland 7th generation
The situation of US leather in the forst 7 months of 2018
Asian turbolence: India & Bangladesh
