COVER STORY
CUTTING OFF FROM THE PAST
A good start
“Leather keeps up”: 2016 was hard going for tanning industry and footwear, better than expected for leather goods. The first quarter of 2017 is not so bleak. That does not work out all problems, yet it sends comforting messages for the months to come.
Leather rises again
Good start in 2017 first quarter as outcomes are beyond expectations. Quite a number of good news (luxury and leather goods are showing signs of recovery, automotive keeps steadily positive), yet a few drawbacks as well (raw material costs). Italian tanning industry backs the turning trend.
Footwear goes up and down
Italian footwear manufacturers face an uphill struggle in the first months of the year, same as 2016. Looking at 2017 differently though, swinging between “stability” and “cautious optimism”. Fully aware of the fact that small companies are in danger, and innovation is essential to keep afloat.
The overtaking
It will take place in 2022, as the USA will outdo France thus becoming leaders for Italian footwear import. Data are provided by a survey carried out by Prometeia/Confindustria: “Prospects are supported (above all) by quality”, aiming to a considerably growing export.
Innovation and work go hand in hand
Scandicci, 2017 first quarter: some leather goods manufacturers are speeding up again (along with fashion brands), others are struggling to keep afloat. “Owing to lack of innovation, they limp along” as they can’t keep up with the “amazing diversification of manufacturing”. Good news from the Abruzzi, bad ones from the Marche.
SUMMARY
THE LAVA JATO SCANDAL
Brazilian meat industry slows down
JBS suppliers put off provisions. The Batista brothers are blacklisted by court and minority shareholders. The USA stop their import. Speculations over Mato Grosso.
LEATHER IS MY JOB
People at work in tanneries | The future generation of the tanning industry
The work for the project promoted by Cotance & IndustriAll-Europe comes to an end after 2 years. Opening of schools, participation in exposition: one lesson remains. A Welcome to Hungary. The winners of Cotance’s European photocontest.
ITALIAN FAIRS
Smaller Lp fairs are growing
London and New York previews are coming up soon. They are the first fair events to launch trends for winter 2018/2019. Both fairs are growing in numbers (of visitors and exhibitors) and importance: they are appreciated and, above all, they are useful.
So far, so close
Expo Riva & Pitti Immagine Uomo. Fairs at opposite corners, with some significant, common ground. Sneakers dominate the fair for the most. There is a feeling that next summer could be a new turning page. To be Bold in Berlin, in 2017.
International Riva Schuh
The footwear exposition opens its doors wider and wider for the world to come in. Higher number of foreign exhibitors, proving a shift in global production. New commercial horizons appearing for italians. Comfort is king, even in footwear. Consuming: Beijing grows, while the USA remain first.
Sporty spirit
Pitti Immagine Uomo proved the ulterior positive jump for sneakers everybody is making them, everybody sells them, everybody wears them. Classic footwear remains a challenge of a few. All stuck, without investing in after-sale service.
THE DIGITAL CHALLENGE
Parallel convergences
Global production has been decreasing. Likewise the average quality of raw material coming from tanneries has been going down. Bad news from La Baule (Nantes), at the sixth international Veal Meeting, over the critical calf situation.
The fashion e-workshop
E-commerce business expands as technology innovation speeds up at a blistering pace. Q&a with Giuseppe Tamola, Italy, Spain and Poland country manager for Zalando. The giant pays attention to leather.
Focus on product
Shopping changes as it turns digital, real and multi-channel. Yet luxury clients demand for tailored items, while fashion brands “revalue” artisan work.
THAT’S THE WAY IT IS
Sneaker, sneaker, sneakers!
“They are a must for every shoe factory”, says Nike, as “they are a cultural benchmark at this point”. In Spain they have outdone apparel. In the USA they drive and boost men’s footwear sales. Training shoes never cease to amaze. That’s why Sarah Jessica Parker…
HIGHLIGHTS
From Italy – Business lecture: Antiba welcomes 34 students from USC Marshall (University of California)
Research & around – Green biopolymers for ecofriendly tanning | Degreasing without surfactants: is it feasible? | It heats up much less. It is reflective // in cooperation with Lineapelle | Environment & Sustainability
ZDHC gains popularity – TFL joins the group
News From India – Indian leather area hit by recession | Off to Kolkata
Etiopia – 50 million dollars from the world bank
Afghanistan – A tannery in Herat
Vietnam – Western sounding
Indonesia – Too much import
Malawi – Development
