“When I was 20 years old, working in the sector was not socially rewarding. Now it’s different. Young people are calling us. It means that work in leather goods is appreciated by the new generations”. So says Leonardo Calistri, who is 40 years old (in the photo to the right, at Mipel). Together with his […]
It starts with a big break with the past: the location will be Florence and the month will be June. On Tuesday, June 7th, 2022, Chanel’s Métiers d’art fashion show will take place in Florence. Why did they choose the Tuscan capital? There are historical reasons. The brand has a strong link with Italy, where […]
“Acquiring tanneries? In principle, yes, because we also want to go upstream in the supply chain. But we don’t have the specific knowledge”. These are the words of Claudio Rovere, CEO of Hind (pictured). Hind is a holding company that invests in the capital of small and medium-sized companies with the aim of encouraging growth,...
There are factors that make leather a unique material. They are often taken for granted. Often, unfortunately, they are not known or, worse, are deliberately and instrumentally ignored. Sometimes interviews like this one remind us of them. Speaking is Gordian Tork, President of Uniters Group (left photo). What does Uniters do? It doesn’t sell leathers, […]
The war as seen by Portugal. Even if the joint markets of Russia and Ukraine only account for 1% of Portuguese footwear exports, the segment is concerned of potential “second degree” penalizing conditions. For example, towards Germany, Netherlands and Poland, all destinations where the goods transited to end up in Russia. Moreover, there are the...
Desperate times call for desperate measures. That is to say: limiting European exports of raw and semi-finished materials outside the EU borders. The possibility of making a formal request to the European Commission is being considered by UNIC – Conceria Italiane in agreement with Cotance (the European confederation of national trade associations). Both consider it, […]
The results from the last TheOneMilano were a bit in the gray, admits CEO Elena Salvaneschi. And it was difficult to have it another way, even more so for leather. The war in Ukraine and the consequent international repercussions on Russia have impacted a market that is of high importance for the segment. And now, admits […]
Kharkiv, main footwear district of the country, is a war zone. News of the bombing of the footwear plant in Dnipro, gives measure of the war’s intensity. It’s a dramatic scene, but Ukraine’s footwear resists, in its own way, to the crisis caused by the war. In Poland, meanwhile, concerns over the same segment rose due...
Covid stops China again. The country’s authorities have imposed lockdowns in many provinces, including the manufacturing one of Dongguan, following the increment of positive cases. Meanwhile, US customs have blocked the containers of sportswear group Li-Ning, effectively firing up the trade war between the two countries. The result? The stock prices of luxury groups, even...
20 tanneries “all operating in the Tuscan tanning district and joint through the production of the same product categories”. In other words: vegetable tanned hides. An historic green that, recently, had done an additional upgrading to build the Consorzio al Vegetale’s Procedural Guidelines presented at Lineapelle 99 (22 – 24 February). A document that, thanks […]
Inevitably, the name brings to mind the Beatles. It’s a short way from Let It Be to Leather It Be. Much longer (and more reasoned), and strategic, is the development of the project implemented by the Tuscan tanning district: Masini, Nuova Albora, New Life, Antichi Conciatori and MC. A project that’s called Leather It Be. Leather It Be Leather should be […]
The key word is “incalculable”. Because “incalculable” is the consequence of what is currently happening at a geopolitical level. And “incalculable” (most importantly) are the values to put on price tags while this constant and hysteric daily dynamic of uncontrolled (speculative) pricing continues. A situation within which Italy’s tanning industry finds itself in an uncomfortable...
What is happening to raw material for the tanning segment that used to come from Russia and Ukraine? The war effectively blocked the purchasing capacity of tanneries and traders that are now looking for alternatives. Many companies used to buy raw hides from the two countries and now find themselves in need of an alternative,...
The last round of trade fairs closes with results that the organisers consider satisfactory. Micam, Mipel and TheOneMilano, held on March 13-15, brought the Italian fashion proposal for winter 2022/23 to Fieramilano Rho. And they attracted, as the press release states, “attendance equally divided between Italy and abroad”. But Russian instability looms over the market....
Europe will no longer sell to Russia luxury goods and fashion accessories whose price exceeds 300 dollars. This was decided on March 15, 2022, by the Council of the European Union, ratifying the indications that emerged during the meeting between European diplomats which took place on Monday, March 14, 2022, behind closed doors. The list […]
Short- and long-term objectives. Synergies and forecasts for the future. Ezio Castellani, president of Assoconciatori and historical Tuscan tanning entrepreneur, tells us in this interview the goals he has set for himself in the role he has taken on a few months ago. “I accepted this role solely in the interest of the tanneries in […]
In 2017 we called it “the tanning philosopher’s stone” (in photo at the center of our cover at the time). Even then, transparent leather, which had just returned to the catwalk after being created a while back, wasn’t news. But the question we have been asking for the last 5 years is whether this material,...
Despite repeatedly stating the opposite, Hermès is launching a real production booster to meet the growing demand for its bags. The maison has announced plans for two leather goods workshops in France, creating 500 jobs. One will open in 2025, the other in 2026. These two new projects are in addition to the other 3 […]
Italy’s leather goods’ segment recovered compared to 2020, but is still far from the performance of 2019. According to Assopellettieri, 2021 was okay, but the crisis between Russia and Ukraine threatens to slow the performance during 2022, effectively stopping the segment to reach pre-Covid levels. Specifically, the increments in energy and raw material prices caused...
Despite everything, confident. Despite the war, tensions over raw materials, supply chains and an uncertain and volatile environment, there is a luxury that expects to grow. For example, the statements by Brunello Cucinelli, Hugo Boss and Tod’s go in this direction. All three of them believe that 2022 will be a year in which business...
