Why are investments in next gen materials slowing

Why are investments in next gen materials slowing

Next gen materials’ companies collected 500 million from investors. This means an 8.6% increment on 2022, a year of crisis. Yet, the amount is not even half what the segment had collected in 2021, meaning 1.1 billion USD. Moreover, compared to 2022, the number of deals dropped (-30%) along with the risk capital (-42%). The […]

Quiet, ma pure divertente: il lusso si sbizzarrisce negli accessori

Quiet, yet fun: luxury indulges in accessories

“Luxury should be fun”. This is how Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi presented the Fall-Winter 24/25 collection during the last Milan Fashion Week (20-26 February). A collection that included a “lollipop bag”, a pure expression of funny fashion: the new Fendi x Chupa Chups leather lollipop holder. And this was not the only “object...

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Low, comfortable and made of leather: Mary Jane’s are back to stay

Low, comfortable and made of leather: Mary Jane’s are back to stay

Low, comfortable and made of leather. One only has to look at the latest collections to realise that the iconic Mary Jane model is back. Having become recognisable over time with their black leather upper, rounded toe and an instep strap, the Mary Jane has its roots in childlike aesthetics and school imagery. But the […]

Almaty closes with positive chimes, now it's Düsseldorf's turn

Almaty closes with positive chimes, now it’s Düsseldorf’s turn

On Friday, 1 March, La moda italiana@Almaty closed with positive chimes. The trade fair calendar does not stop, but proposes, from Sunday 3 to Tuesday 5 March, Shoes Düsseldorf in Germany. Then eyes will be on Obuv, in Moscow from 12 to 15 March. A trade fair tour that started off on the right foot […]

Not so quiet, but no excess: luxury at Milan Fashion Week

Not so quiet, but no excess: luxury at Milan Fashion Week

Luxury is there. Closing on Monday (26 February) is a Milan Fashion Week in which the world of haute couture has asserted its position. The brands seemed to respond to the climate of expectation and scepticism about their future by showing off their best. Without any particular excesses, it is true, but not even closed...

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Paris Fashion Week: the first act of Dior, YSL and Courrèges

Paris Fashion Week: the first act of Dior, YSL and Courrèges

Paris Fashion Week (running from 26 February to 5 March) is underway. The first to show their autumn-winter 2024 collections were Dior, with a collection inspired by Gabriella Crespi, celebrating the plural feminine and independence. And YSL, which presented a study on purity and nudity, inspired by the founder of the French fashion house. While […]

Nine financial statements show that the challenge in 2023 was marginality

Nine financial statements show that the challenge in 2023 was marginality

The 2023 revenue of 9 brands and groups shows that last year, also due to inflation (which raised prices), the real challenge wasn’t revenue but marginality. From Lanvin to Borbonese, we report on them one by one. The challenge of maintaining margins Lanvin Group 2023 was a “transition year”, says the group: preliminary revenue shows...

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Florence, “System Pact” to safeguard leather goods

Florence, “System Pact” to safeguard leather goods

A deal to protect the leather goods system of Florence, which is currently suffering due to the slowdown of the luxury industry. A “System Pact” with the goal of minimizing the impacts on the chain, “to safeguard the know-how that makes the Florentine system so special”, explained in a press release Confindustria Firenze. The entity...

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New rules’ needed for a leather goods system in crisis

New rules’ needed for a leather goods system in crisis

“The market will resume with new rules, dictated by the consumer-actor, who is increasingly the protagonist, and capable of preferring one good to another because it is produced in a circumscribed territory where ethics, sustainability and other values are at home. Some sort of PGI bag”. Luca Bortolami (in the photo), CEO of Tigamaro, a […]

“The problem with the German market is that it only focuses on price”

“The problem with the German market is that it only focuses on price”

Quality doesn’t (always) pay up. That’s the case for Italian shoes in Germany, which went from European powerhouse to sickly nation only focused on price. Germans have closed their wallets a while ago. They don’t spend and prefer saving. The result? The retail system is struggling, as chains go into crisis, bankruptcy and close their...

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Craft the Leather, here is who won the 10th edition

Craft the Leather, here is who won the 10th edition

The winner of the 10th edition of the Craft the Leather contest comes from New York. The project, promoted by Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, involves international design schools and aims to foster innovation and artisanal production. Of the 8 participants this year, Balbina Brunell (in photo), from the Parsons School of Fashion […]

Italian Leather, a Restructuring Agreement is approved

Italian Leather, a Restructuring Agreement is approved

A new chapter for Italian Leather Group, tannery based in Monopoli (Bari). The local court has approved the Restructuring Agreement procedure started on May 4th 2023, which is a fundamental step to avoid the laying off of 70 employees in June 2024 (out of 200 total). Restructuring Agreement is approved Owner Kulch (active in the...

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Greenwashing, no more: Zalando needs to review its tags and claims

Greenwashing, no more: Zalando needs to review its tags and claims

Starting April 15th, Zalando will remove its generic sustainability tags and claims, such as the images of leaves and trees. In their place, the e-commerce will need to provide detailed information regarding the product, such as percentage of reused materials. The push comes from the EU Commission, which proved to be determining in making a […]

What we know about the market after the last round of trade fairs #Greatify

What we know about the market after the last round of trade fairs #Greatify

The last round of trade fairs is over #Greatify. Micam, Mipel and TheOneMilano were held in Fieramilano Rho together with Milano Fashion & Jewels from February 18th to 21st of February: they closed with 40,821 visitors from all over the world. A “positive” result, according to organizers. Lineapelle, held at the same location (February 20-22)...

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On MFW’s catwalks, fashion focuses on seduction

On MFW’s catwalks, fashion focuses on seduction

Fashion focuses on seduction. On Milan fashion catwalks, female sensuality is a common denominator that is expressed and declined in different forms. From the extreme elegance of Tom Ford to the gritty unruliness of MM6 Maison Margiela. From the revolutionary tailoring of Prada to the fun naïf mood of Moschino. Milan Fashion Week (20-26 February)...

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Gucci’s fashion show: like it or not, De Sarno goes his own way

Gucci’s fashion show: like it or not, De Sarno goes his own way

Gucci’s second women’s collection, designed by creative director Sabato De Sarno, took place in the Carlo Macchi foundry in Milan. Sensuality returns, declined in materials and volumes. With a coup de grâce, the designer tries to go beyond last season’s quiet start, and gives life to a collection of lush petticoats, leather jackets, biker shorts […]

Leonardo Valentini's eroticism at Lineapelle Designers Edition

Leonardo Valentini’s eroticism at Lineapelle Designers Edition

Leonardo Valentini closes the fifth Lineapelle Designers Edition (Milan, 20-22 February) with his “Baratto” (barter, ed.) collection, named after the 1979 song by Renato Zero. The designer, who has dressed artists of the calibre of Lenny Kravitz, Måneskin, Irama, Ghali and Rose Villain, brings to the catwalk a project that enhances fine leathers. Focusing on...

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Dani and Institut Français de la Mode: 10 years in the name of leather

Dani and Institut Français de la Mode: 10 years in the name of leather

10 years in the name of leather. Dani, Veneto-based tanning group, celebrated at Spazio Lineapelle what is more than an anniversary. It presented its future training program in collaboration with IFM, Institut Français de la Mode, which has been running for ten years. A chance to showcase what has been achieved until now and what […]

Italy’s leather goods industry: solid 2023, dark 2024

Italy’s leather goods industry: solid 2023, dark 2024

Italy’s leather goods industry show a solid 2023 but a dark 2024. The research study conducted by Confindustria Moda in January 2024 reports that nearly half (47%) of those surveyed expects a drop in revenue during the first quarter of 2024, compared to the same period of 2023. Nearly 30% of companies believe the drop...

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