Reshoring? Yes, but without exaggeration. Leather goods and footwear already have a shortage of personnel: an increase in production would amplify this criticality. This is the summary of what Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici, and Franco Gabbrielli, president of Assopellettieri, explain to La Conceria. For the former, a return of Asian production to Italy has...
Analysts expect Gucci to focus on leather handbags during its new cycle. Meanwhile, one thing is for certain: they will be sold at higher prices. Data by Retviews-Lectra shows that the brand has an undersized offering of leather goods, compared to its competitors. Additionally, it applies lower prices, probably to reach a larger consumer basis....
“Measuring”, meaning the topic of our last monthly edition and the growing number of statements opinions and interviews being published. Looking through the newspapers, we saw an articled by MF Fashion titled: “Armani, Gucci and Cucinelli among the most environmentally conscious companies”. Summarized: “According to ESG, the fashion&beauty cluster has an average index of 26.9 […]
One: “My goal is to highlight the beauty of leather”. So says Pierre Hardy, creative director of the shoe (right, in the Shutterstock photo), jewellery and accessories collections for Hermès and founder of the eponymous brand. Two: “Our founder was really passionate about choosing leather”. These are the words of Xavier Rougeaux (left, in the...
“Pamela Anderson parades for Hugo Boss”. The news could quickly be classified among those concerning stars (more or less on the crest of a wave) who lend themselves to fashion collaborations of various kinds. On the other hand, other old glories such as Naomi Campbell and DJ Khaled (pictured, left) have also participated in the […]
The focus is not only in its stylistic dimension, but also in the materials chosen to make it. Because, if once upon a time there was the studded jacket, an iconic leather jacket model that has crossed styles, seasons and whatnot, today there is an avant-garde one. It is developed by a brand that refers...
From manufacturing ropes for ships in the early 1900s, to the current 8,000 square meters’ production site exporting goods all over the world. “Trait d’union: weaving, always”. Manifattura di Domodossola turns 110 and continues on its history, confirming itself as a family company that is autonomous and tied to the territory. “110 years means going...
Since Business of Fashion titles its article with a rhetorical question, we take the trouble to answer it. “Should fashion do more to protect animals?” the fashion magazine asks. “Leather’s commitment to animal welfare is there and it shows,” we reply. Which, moreover, we have dedicated a specific in-depth article to the topic in “Misurazione” […]
CEO Damien Bertrand just confirmed to the press that the luxury brand doesn’t need “an actual creative director”. Yet, it appears that Loro Piana contradicts itself. Because according to (unconfirmed) rumors collected by MFF, it has allegedly already engaged Paul Surridge, designer with experience in Roberto Cavalli and Jil Sanders, among others. The position of creative director […]
Greetings from Moscow, where elegant and made in Italy products are appreciated more than elsewhere. The spring edition of Obuv Mir Kohzi ended on Friday, March 17, with a reassuring balance sheet. Russia confirmed itself as an important market for the companies that have focused their sales strategies there. Local buyers went in search of...
“Leather enhances Italian craftsmanship more than rubber. But there is a lack of personnel”. These are the two sides of a medal that, after a long period of dullness, is once again gaining value with the return of the formal shoe, that has turned the spotlight back on the world of leather. This is confirmed...
“Production problems? More in Europe than in China”. It’s the comment made by Massimiliano Rossi (in photo), CEO of Zeis Excelsa, company that distributed 1 million pairs of shoes during last year. The latter owns the brands Cult, Docksteps, Virtus Palestre and Oxs and has the license for brand Alberto Guardiani. It employs 60 people. “Shipping timelines...
The start of 2023 is suffering from the slow Chinese market: weak demand tied to non-brilliant production. US and Brazilian leather have been impacted because China and Hong Kong represent the main export markets. Thus, any variation generates consequences on the overall context. Additionally, the weight of Italy isn’t to be disregarded, as it’s the […]
It was January 2023 when the state of Oregon proposed a law to ban kangaroo leather and the local press asked itself how Nike (which has its HQ in Oregon) would react. Meanwhile, back in February 2021, we wrote of how we hoped that Nike, along with other large sporting brands, wouldn’t fall into just the […]
It is almost a sign of destiny, jokes Christy Plott, that on the eve of the Eastern California District Court ruling she was among the World Wildlife Day speakers. Judge Kimberley Mueller was about to declare California’s ban on alligator and crocodile leather and products invalid. And she, the fourth generation of the tannery American...
Working with leather requires multiple skills. But even today it is sometimes irreverent creativity that makes the difference. The story of Robert Mercier, creator of the leather dress modelled as if it were a peplum on Zendaya, shown at the Venice Film Festival in 2021, represents a point of arrival and in this case a...
The German retail apocalypse is upon us. In the last two weeks a concerning domino effect has been set off by statements of crisis and the shutdown of many fashion and footwear retailers. Thousands of employees could be without a job. A crisis that has a close impact on Italy too, especially for the footwear...
In Los Angeles, in an unusually non-fashion week date, on the evening of March 10 (not coincidentally on the eve of the Oscars) we saw the Versace that will be. Donatella presented the FW 23/24 collection at the Pacific Design Center (West Hollywood), showcasing a “strong woman” who wears alligator-print leather coats or combines elegant […]
Style guide to Phoebe Philo? “Loro Piana has never had a real creative director so, for the moment, I don’t think it’s necessary,” Damien Bertrand, CEO of the brand from November 2021, replies to the rumours. Bertrand (pictured in white frame) points out that the brand has a Loro Piana Studio “with a very talented […]
CafèNoir’s supply chain: global and flexible. Simply put: it uses producers all over the world, which change depending on fashion trends and consumption. Founded in 1992 in San Miniato Basso (Pisa), the company produces shoes, handbags and leather accessories, apparel. The latter, with the introduction of the women’s line in 2014, transformed CafèNoir into a...
