When all is said and done, regenerated leather fibre is better than veg materials. Dr. Martens wants to invest in sustainability. And after tests and analyses, it has come to the conclusion that greener than the latest alternative proposals, however much they may be cloaked in “bio-based” novelties, is the good old recycled material made by “remixing” (pardon the simplification) tanning waste.
Better than veg materials
It is Dr. Martens’ CEO himself, Kenny Wilson (pictured), who explains in a post on Drapers how the brand came to these conclusions. “We want to reduce the environmental impact of our products, but without compromising on style, fit, comfort or durability,” are his words. Dr. Martens has experimented with “recycled or plant-based materials” in the past, but these have shown a weak side: they are “not very durable”. The rejection of vegan alternatives is not definitive: the British company continues to monitor the market. But in the meantime, in order to complete the offer with products in line with the sustainability goals and, at the same time, the quality standards of the company he heads, Wilson has finally decided to invest in Gen Phoenix, a British company (already known under the brand name E-Leather) that produces regenerated leather fibre.
A point in our favour
A plethora of alternative materials are appearing in the fashion system. We know them: they give themselves many airs of being more sustainable than leather “because they are bio-based”. The public is in danger of being confused by their propaganda. This is why we at La Conceria constantly point out all the scientific evidence (most recently Ars Tinctoria, before that FILK) that incontrovertibly refutes the green claims of these materials. And we punctually report the empirical cases that the chronicle offers us (such as the discontent of Tesla customers). Wilson’s intervention is of absolute depth. Because it comes from an even-handed judge: the manager of a brand that has no vested interests (quite the contrary). And because it shows that, at the moment, the alternatives are not only not up to leather’s standards, but not even to its recycled material.
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